Steadicam SK Model for Sale
Look like Big Hollywood! Impress your friends!
Offering our Stediacam VideoSK model for sale. Steadicam? Who uses a full-sized Steadicam rig anymore? Well, lots of people. If you have a heavier (or even semi-heavier) camera and want to stabilize it, one of the first thoughts these days is to use the Ronin or Movi or one of the similar hand-held stabilizers. Those are fantastic tools and do a great job, but if you've tried it you know that unless you are Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson after about 90 seconds your arms are on fire. For lengthy shots or a full day's worth of production, the real Steadicam is still the way to go. There's no need for "Popeye" arms, as all the weight rests on your shoulders and hips, and it doesn't limit you to lower-level shots like the motorized-gimbal stabilizers often do.

This is not a Glidecam, Flycam, or any other of the Clone-cams... this is the real deal, the real Cinema Products/Tiffen Steadicam.

Why the Steadicam?

There are plenty of small stabilizers out there (heck, I love my DJI Osmo Pro), but sometimes you need a "real" camera (again, no disrespect to the Zenmuse X5 on my Osmo, which is a great camera but it is what it is). This is a full-sized rig capable of flying cameras from 8-19 pounds. That makes it perfect for a RED setup, the Arri Alexa, or anything else in that range. I personally use it with my Canon C300PL (which fully dressed out with lens and accessories clocks in at about 11lb).

This is an older rig, obviously... I am the second owner and have had it for about 15 years. It is in great shape and has ONLY been used by professional Steadicam operators and has never been a rental unit. I baby my gear, and it shows. Cosmetically I'd grade this as a 9 out of 10. Mechanically and functionally, it is a 10.

What do you get?

Pretty much everything. Let's see... there's the upper stage, the lower sled, the 27" single action Iso-Elastic arm (no tools adjustment when fully loaded), the vest, camera plate, C-stand mount, hex wrench (the only tool that is needed for adjustment), really nice case (a little scuffed but perfectly fine), and manual.

This is the Anton-Bauer version of the rig, with a single Goldmount plate so one battery powers both the green daylight-visible aircraft monitor as well as the camera (if you choose).

Surely something is missing, right?

Not much, only two things, really... cables. This rig is designed so that you can power both the monitor and the camera from the same Goldmount battery. You do that with a small power cable that connects your camera to the power tap in the camera deck. I never ever used it this way (I always used cameras with their own batteries), so somewhere through the years that little cable disappeared. If you wanted to use it that way, you'd need a little cable with a LEMO connector on one end, and whatever is appropriate for your camera on the other. Should be readily available. The other thing the factory unit comes with is a video cable... a short lightweight BNC-to-BNC cable, which connects the composite output of your camera to the BNC connector on the top of the camera stage. This has disappeared, too, because I never used the factory cable (I used another one). Easy to replace, or make your own to the exact length you want.

Is the rig good to go?

Yes, it's ready for action, right out of the case. Slap on a camera and battery and you're good to go right out of the box. For long-term use there is one modification/upgrade that one might consider... the monitor. This is the standard-def greenscreen "aircraft display" CRT monitor that Steadicam originally used. It was considered an amazing innovation at the time, since it was visible outdoors even in sunlight, and since a Steadicam monitor is really only used for framing that was quite an innovation. Today, though, it's a bit dated. If I was keeping this rig I'd probably replace the CRT with an HD LCD monitor, maybe one of those from SmallHD or such. It would take a bit of rigging but I think someone with a decent amount of electrical and mechanical knowledge could handle it just fine. You could use the same internal cabling from the BNC connector to send an HD-SDI signal to the new monitor instead of the composite signal, and could probably figure out how to route power from the on-board battery as well (or use a monitor with an internal battery... although you'd still need a dead AB battery in the mount, just as counterweight).

Ok, how much?

This unit originally sold for about $16,000, maybe a little more. I paid a fair bit less than that 15 years ago. About five or six years ago these were going in the $6K neighborhood. Today, in the smaller-camera world, the demand is lower so the prices are less. Something in the $3K neighborhood is reasonable.

So, what can we do to put you in this Steadicam today?

Any reasonable offer considered. Tempt me at